I’m going to be honest — I owned my washing machine for three years before I actually figured out what half the buttons did. I ran every single load on Normal, cranked it to warm, and called it a day. Sound familiar? You’re not alone, and you’re also leaving a lot of money, time, and clean-clothes potential on the table.
There’s one setting in particular that most people walk right past, and it might just be the most useful thing on your entire machine. But while we’re at it, let’s talk about a handful of other settings you’ve probably never touched — and why you should.
Delay Start: The Button That Runs Your Laundry While You Sleep
This is the one. The delay start button — sometimes called “delay wash” — is sitting right there on your control panel, and most people have zero idea what it does. Here’s the short version: it lets you load your washer now and tell it to start hours later.
Why does that matter? Think about it. You toss a load in before bed at 9 PM. If you hit start right then, those clothes sit wet and wadded up in the drum all night. By 7 AM, they smell like a damp basement. But if you set the delay for about 9 or 10 hours, the machine kicks on around 6 AM and finishes right when you’re pouring your coffee. Fresh, clean, no mildew funk. You throw them in the dryer while making breakfast, and they’re folded before lunch.
The way it works is dead simple on most machines. You select your cycle and settings like normal, then press the delay start button — usually once per hour of delay. Want it to start in 8 hours? Press it 8 times. Some Samsung front-loaders let you delay up to 19 hours. Most GE top-loaders go up to 9. Check your owner’s manual or just Google your model number if you’re not sure.
But here’s where it gets really good. Depending on where you live, your electric company charges different rates at different times of day. Running your washer at 2 AM instead of 6 PM can be noticeably cheaper. If you’re on a time-of-use plan (ask your utility company), this alone could shave a few bucks off your bill every month. It’s not a fortune, but it adds up over a year — and all you did was press a button a few extra times.
Quick Wash Is Not Just for Lazy People
I used to think the quick wash was some kind of shortcut for people who didn’t care about clean clothes. Wrong. It’s actually a legit cycle designed for small loads — think 2 to 4 items — that aren’t heavily soiled. Wore a shirt to dinner and it smells like garlic bread? Quick wash. Kid spilled juice on their school pants? Quick wash. It typically finishes in about 15 to 30 minutes and uses less water and electricity because it’s not running a full-length cycle.
The catch: don’t cram a full basket in there and expect magic. Quick wash works because the cycle is short and the spin is aggressive. If you overload it, your clothes won’t get clean and they’ll come out more tangled than a box of Christmas lights. Keep it small, keep it lightly soiled, and you’ll wonder why you ever waited 55 minutes for a load that didn’t need it.
Permanent Press Isn’t Just a Dryer Thing
Here’s another one people skip because the name sounds confusing. Permanent press on your washer uses warm water during the wash and then switches to a cooler rinse, with a slower spin speed. That combination does two things: it relaxes wrinkles that formed while clothes were sitting in the hamper, and it prevents new ones from setting in during the spin.
This is the cycle you want for dress shirts, work pants, blouses, and anything made from synthetic fabrics. If you’ve been ironing clothes that come out of the wash looking like crumpled paper bags, you might not have an ironing problem — you might have a cycle selection problem. The cooler water also helps reduce shrinkage, which is something anyone who’s accidentally turned a medium into a small can appreciate.
Extra Rinse: A Lifesaver for Sensitive Skin
If anyone in your house breaks out in rashes, gets itchy after wearing freshly washed clothes, or has eczema or allergies, pay attention. The extra rinse setting adds another full rinse cycle after the main wash. No detergent, no fabric softener — just water sloshing through the fabric to get rid of every last trace of soap.
Most detergents — even the “free and clear” kinds you get at Walmart — leave behind a residue that’s usually invisible but not always harmless. An extra rinse takes care of that. It’s also great for towels and heavy denim, which tend to hold onto soap because the fabric is so thick. Yes, it adds 15 to 30 extra minutes to your cycle, and yes, it uses more water. But if someone in your family has sensitive skin, it’s worth every drop.
The Pre-Wash Setting Does the Soaking for You
Got a kid who plays soccer? A partner who works on cars? Anyone who comes home looking like they rolled through a mud pit? Stop pre-soaking stuff in the sink like it’s 1987. Your washing machine has a pre-wash cycle, and it handles this automatically.
Pre-wash runs a short, gentle cycle with a little bit of detergent before the main wash kicks in. It loosens up the worst of the dirt and grime so the regular cycle can actually do its job. Here’s the trick: you need to put detergent in both the pre-wash dispenser and the main detergent dispenser. Most machines have separate compartments for this — look at the little drawer where you pour your soap. One slot says “I” or “Pre-Wash” and the other says “II” or “Main Wash.” Split your detergent between the two.
Pro tip: spray your stain remover (OxiClean or Shout, both around $4-$5 at Target) directly on the worst spots, throw the clothes in, and select pre-wash. Let the machine handle the grunt work.
Your Machine Has a Self-Clean Cycle (Please Use It)
This one isn’t about your clothes — it’s about the machine itself. If your washer smells weird, or your “clean” clothes come out smelling slightly off, the problem is probably buildup inside the drum. Detergent residue, fabric softener gunk, and bacteria accumulate over time, and no amount of regular washing gets rid of it.
Most modern machines have a clean washer cycle (Whirlpool calls it “Clean Washer,” LG calls it “Tub Clean,” Samsung calls it “Self Clean”). You run it with an empty drum, usually with hot water. Whirlpool recommends running it every 30 loads. I’d say once a month is a good rule of thumb for most families.
You can buy Affresh washer cleaning tablets at Home Depot or Walmart for about $8 for a pack of 6. Or, if you want to save money, just toss in a cup of white vinegar and run the cycle on hot. Either way, set a monthly reminder on your phone and actually do it. Your clothes (and your nose) will thank you.
Water Level Matters More Than You Think
According to the EPA, your washing machine accounts for up to 17 percent of your home’s water usage. A standard top-loader uses 30 to 45 gallons per load. An Energy Star machine? About 14 gallons, sometimes as few as 7. That’s a massive difference, but even with an older machine, you can cut waste just by matching the water level to the actual load size.
Here’s the cheat sheet: if the tub is one-third full or less, use the small setting. That cuts your water use by about a third. If it’s between one-third and three-quarters full, go with medium — roughly half the water of a full load. Only use the large/full setting when the drum is packed. I know it’s tempting to just hit “large” every time, but you’re literally pouring money and water down the drain for no reason.
Some newer machines have load sensing that adjusts water automatically, which is great. But if yours doesn’t, you’ve got to do this yourself. It takes two seconds.
Stop Running Everything on Normal
Look, I get it. Normal is right there. It’s comfortable. It’s easy. But using Normal for every load is like cooking everything in the oven at 350 degrees — sometimes it works, sometimes you end up with a dried-out chicken breast or burned cookies. Different clothes need different treatment.
Here’s a quick reference that’ll save you time and keep your clothes lasting longer:
Normal: Everyday cotton stuff — t-shirts, socks, bed sheets, underwear. Moderate to high agitation, fast spin. This is your workhorse.
Delicate: Bras, silk, lace, anything with beading. Low agitation, slow spin. Use a mesh bag (you can grab a pack of 3 at Dollar Tree).
Heavy Duty: Towels, jeans, muddy work clothes. Hot water, high agitation, extra rinse. Uses more water and power, so don’t use it unless you actually need it.
Bulky/Sheets: Comforters, blankets, sleeping bags. More water, slower spin so things don’t get tangled.
Colors: Dark or colored clothes, activewear. Cold water to prevent bleeding and fading.
Sorting your laundry by cycle type instead of just by color is the real hack here. It takes an extra minute or two, but your clothes will look better, last longer, and come out cleaner. That’s a trade I’ll make any day.
One More Thing: Read Your Machine’s Manual
I know nobody reads manuals. I didn’t either. But you paid $500, $800, maybe $1,200 for your washing machine, and you’re using about 30% of what it can do. Most manufacturers put their manuals online for free — just search your brand and model number. It takes 10 minutes, and you’ll probably find at least one feature you had no idea existed. That delay start button? It was sitting there the whole time, waiting for you to notice.
